Showing posts with label Cook's Illustrated. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cook's Illustrated. Show all posts

March 16, 2011

Spiced Layer Cake with Maple Cream Cheese Frosting

Childhood birthday traditions never die. There will always be something special about the cake your mom used to make for you on your birthday (even if it came from a box). No one can take that away from you. When Mark was little, his mom made him a spice cake on his birthday. Now whenever I ask him what kind of cake I should make for him, it always comes back to spice cake.

One year it was a firecracker apple spice cake---which turned out to be actually a little spicy-hot which took some getting used to. It was different, but quite amazing once you got over the shock of it. This year--surprise!--I ended up making another spice cake for Mark's birthday. We briefly considered having a maple cake, but you know a birthday wouldn't be a birthday without a little tradition.

In the end we went with a spice cake adapted from Cook's Illustrated. I added a little bit more spice, made it a layer cake, filled with with maple whipped cream and added maple cream cheese frosting. Maybe it's just me, but I'm pretty sure you can never go wrong with maple. Add maple cream cheese frosting to my list of favorites. You know I am a sucker for cream cheese frosting, but this really was fantastic.

Don't just trust me on this one--try it! You might inadvertently create a brand new tradition for yourself.

Spiced Layer Cake with Maple Filling and Maple Cream Cheese Frosting
For the cake: (I used slightly rounded measurements for all the spices and the ginger.)
  • 2  1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for cake pans
  • 1  teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground gloves
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks), softened
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 large eggs at room temperature
  • 3 large egg yolks at room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1  3/4 cups sugar
  • 2 tablespoons molasses
  • 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely grated
  • 1 cup buttermilk at room temperature
  1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease (I like using the butter wrappers for this) and flour two 9-inch round cake pans. Combine spices in a small bowl and set aside.
  2. Heat 4 tablespoons butter in a small, light colored skillet or saucepan over medium heat until melted--1 or 2 minutes. Continue cooking, swirling the pan constantly, until the butter is light brown and has a nutty aroma, another 2 to 4 minutes. Add the spice mixture and cook, stirring constantly for another 15 seconds (this allows the spices to "bloom"). Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
  3. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, whisk eggs, egg yolks and vanilla to combine. With a mixer, cream remaining 12 tablespoons of butter with sugar and molasses at medium-high speed until pale and fluffy (about 3 minutes). Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl a couple of times during mixing. Reduce to medium speed and add cooled butter and spice mixture, ginger and half of egg mixture. Incorporate and scrape down sides before adding the rest of the egg mixture.
  4. Reduce to low speed and add one-third of the flour mixture. Add half of the buttermilk and mix until just incorporated. Repeat with half of the remaining flour mixture and the rest of the buttermilk. Scrape down the bowl and add remaining flour mixture. Mix on medium speed until combined, about 15 seconds. Remove bowl from mixer and fold batter a couple of times to incorporate any remaining flour.
  5. Divide batter evenly between the two prepared pans. To remove air bubbles from thick batter, drag a butter knife through the batter in both pans in a zig-zag motion. Tap both pans on the counter a few times as well.
  6. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool cakes in pans on a wire rack.
  7. Run a knife around the edges of the pan to loosen. Put both cakes on a parchment lined pan and freeze for about a half an hour. (The cold cakes are easier to work with.) Using a long serrated knife, cut the top off of one of the cakes, creating a flat surface. Place cut cake on a large plate. This will become your bottom layer.
For the maple whip filling:
  • 1 cup chilled whipping cream
  • 3 tablespoons maple syrup
  1. Chill mixing bowl and beaters in the freezer. Pour whipping cream into bowl and beat on high speed until it forms soft peaks. 
  2. Add maple syrup and continue beating until stiff peaks form.
  3. Spread a thick layer filling on bottom layer of cake. Top with remaining cake.
For the maple cream cheese frosting:
  • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces and softened
  • 8 ounces cream cheese, cut into pieces and softened
  • 1  1/2 cup powdered sugar, sifted
  • 1 tablespoon maple syrup
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/2 teaspoon maple extract
  • 3/4 cup chopped and  toasted pecans
  1. Beat butter and cream cheese until smooth. Add maple syrup, vanilla, maple extract and powdered sugar. Beat until well combined.
  2. Scoop out most of the frosting onto the top of the cake. It is easier to spread the frosting without picking up crumbs if you have a lot to work with. With an offset spatula, spread frosting over the top and sides of the cake. Coat sides and sprinkle top of frosted cake with toasted pecans.

March 6, 2011

Sweet Roasted Acorn Squash

This Cook's Illustrated recipe has in my repertoire for some time. I've been meaning to post it for, I don't know, the last few years or so. It's easy, relatively quick, and exceedingly delicious. It's rich and sweet and better than candy as far as I'm concerned. That being said, I don't make it all the time because the butter and the brown sugar probably outweigh the benefits of eating squash with dinner. (I have tried this with less butter and sugar and it is great that way, too.)

You do have to be careful what you pair this with, since it is a sweet and decadent side-dish. I've made a meal of nothing but this and sauteed kale and been thorough satisfied. Whatever you decide to make to serve with this, I do hope you try this recipe. It is technically still winter, so make this while you still can. Before you know it, spring will be here! Hip, hip, hooray!

Roasted Acorn Squash
  • 2 medium-sized acorn squash
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt, plus more for sprinkling
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 3 tablespoons packed brown sugar
  1. Adjust top oven rack to 6-inches from element. Pre-heat the broiler.
  2. Cut each acorn squash in half. Scoop out all of the seeds and strings. Make sure to really get all of it out or the glaze will not seep into the flesh of the squash . (This step is a little onerous.)
  3. Place the four halves in a large microwave-safe glass bowl, such as a Pyrex. (The open halves will be facing the sides of the bowl.) Add a little less than 1/4 cup of water to the bowl, then cover the bowl tightly with a couple layers of plastic wrap. Poke 4 small holes in the top for the steam to vent. Microwave for 10-15 minutes, or until the squash offers no resistance when poked with fork. Carefully remove from the microwave. Open the plastic wrap of the side away from you to let the steam out.
  4. Place halves face up on a tin foil-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt. Cut lines criss-crossing the squash (this helps the glaze sink in and makes the squash taste better!).
  5. Heat butter, brown sugar and 1/8 teaspoon salt in a small pot over low heat on the stove. Whisk occasionally, until it dissolves. Divide mixture evenly over the four squash halves, making sure to coat every inch.
  6. Broil until brown and caramelized, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
Serves 4

    December 20, 2010

    Browned Butter White Chocolate Chip Cranberry Cookies

    Let us talk about decadence. Let us talk about Christmas cookies. Let us talk about butter. Lots and lots of butter--browned butter to be exact.

    These browned butter chocolate chip cookies have that caramelized, butterscotch-y taste that makes the most memorable chocolate chip cookies so memorable. They also have those crispy-delicious crunchy edges juxtaposed with a soft center. It is impossible to choose my favorite part of these cookies--it is the overall experience that makes them so grand.

    These cookies, when made with white chocolate chips and dried cranberries, are not messing around. This is one rich, sweet cookie. But I contend that the holidays are a perfect time for this cookie. We all indulge a little this time of year, right? These cookies also involve two extra steps. When you are baking a lot for the holidays, maybe you are not inclined to make cookies that have two extra steps. Maybe you just want to get the cookies over with. Those regular cookies will taste good, I don't doubt it for a second.

    BUT, I assure you these cookies will taste better. Like many things that take a little extra effort, it is worth it! First, there is the browning of the butter, which imparts a lovely depth and adds extra complexity. I actually really like this step because when I want to make cookies, I rarely remember to get butter out so it can warm to room temperature. Here you melt the butter, so it eliminates that problem altogether.

    The second extra step doesn't take much effort, just a little extra time. You whisk the butter and sugars and then let them rest. Over an interval of about ten minutes, you repeat that process a few times. During this step, the sugars dissolve. To be honest, I don't know exactly how dissolved sugar helps these cookies. You'll have to ask Cook's Illustrated about that. Maybe it's a textural thing. All I know is that it works.

    So bake a batch or two. Share some. Save plenty for you and yours. Curl up on the couch near the Christmas tree. Have your friends and family gather 'round and give everyone a cookie. To me, this is what the holidays are all about.

    Browned Butter White Chocolate Chip Cranberry Cookies
    • 3 1/2 cups flour
    • 1 teaspoon baking soda
    • 28 tablespoons (yes, 3 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
    • 1 cup white sugar
    • 1 1/2 cups dark brown sugar
    • 2 teaspoons salt
    • 4 teaspoons vanilla
    • 2 large eggs
    • 2 large egg yolks
    • 2 1/2 cups white chocolate chips
    • 1 1/2 cups dried cranberries
    1. Put an oven rack in the middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. 
    2. Whisk the flour and baking soda together in a medium bowl. Set aside.
    3. In a large heatproof bowl, cut 8 tablespoons (1 stick) of butter into a few pieces. Set aside. Heat 20 tablespoons (2 1/2 sticks) of butter in a light colored skillet over medium-high heat. (Do not use a non-stick pan if you can avoid it. You need to see the color of the melted butter to know when it has browned.) Once the butter is melted, continue cooking and stirring until the butter is a dark golden brown and has a nutty aroma, 2-3 minutes. (This will seem to take awhile, but change will happen quickly so pay close attention.) Remove the skillet from heat and our into the large bowl. Stir until all of the butter has melted.
    4. Add both sugars, salt and vanilla to the butter and whisk until fully incorporated. Add the eggs and the egg yolks. Whisk until smooth. Let the mixture stand for 3 minutes, then whisk for 30 seconds. Repeat process of resting and whisking 2 more times. The mixture should be thick, smooth and shiny.
    5. Stir in the flour mixture until just combined. Stir in white chocolate chips and cranberries, making sure no flour pockets remain.
    6. Spoon dough in 3 tablespoon portions spaced 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets. (These cookies will spread, so I recommend 8 to a sheet for perfect cookies. 10 to a sheet if you don't mind the edges sometimes touching.) Bake cookies 1 tray at a time, rotating halfway through, until the cookies are golden brown and still puffy; the edges will have begun to set, but the centers will still be soft--10 to 14 minutes. 
    7. Cool cookies on the baking sheet placed on a wire rack until the cookies can be transferred to the rack itself to cool completely. (If you can wait that long.)
    Makes 3 dozen cookies

    June 13, 2009

    Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie



    This recipe is based on the July 1995 Cooks Illustrated Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie. It's easy when you use Pillsbury Refrigerated Pie Crusts. John loves this combo and I've had varying results. So far this recipe has been consistent for me. It's important to use the right amount of thickener with a pie like this because you could easily end up with a soupy, runny mess of a pie (I've made a few of these). Here is what Cooks has to say about sugar and tapioca:

    The amount of sugar and tapioca you use is relative, depending on the fruit’s quality and your taste. If you prefer a less sweet pie or if the fruit is especially sweet, use the lower sugar amount. If you like your pie juices fairly thick, or if the fruit is really juicy, then opt for the higher amount of tapioca. If you are using frozen fruit, measure it frozen, but let it thaw before filling the pie. If not, you run the risk of partially cooked fruit and undissolved tapioca.

    Ingredients:
    3 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered
    3 cups fresh rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
    3/4 cup granulated sugar
    2 teaspoons lemon juice
    1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
    3–4 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca
    2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
    Pinch of salt and pepper
    1 package of two Pillsbury Pie Crusts*

    Directions:

    Take Pillsbury Pie Crusts out of the frig so it can come to room temperature..

    Heat oven to 400-375 degrees.

    Toss fruit with sugar, lemon juice, vanilla extract, salt, pepper and tapioca. It’s really important to let it stand for 15 minutes.

    Unroll the first crust onto a lightly floured surface. Gently roll it so it is even. Don’t over roll it because it is already the right thickness. Do this for both crusts.

    Fit one piecrust into bottom of pie dish. Fill with fruit mixture. Lay second crust over top. Trim top and bottom dough edges to 1/2-inch beyond pan lip. Tuck this rim of dough underneath itself so that folded edge is flush with pan lip. Flute dough in your own fashion, or press with fork tines to seal.

    With the dough trimmings you can gently reform and rollout to make decorations. I made little strawberries and cut some little vines for the vents.

    If pie dough is very soft, place in freezer for 10 minutes before baking.

    Place pie on baking sheet in the middle of the oven; bake until top crust is golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake until juices bubble and crust is golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes longer.

    *I've used other brands and they just don't turn out as well.

    March 29, 2009

    Browned Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies


    The perfect chocolate chip cookies--Cook's Illustrated's claim, not mine. But, these cookies are truly great. I haven't met anyone who doesn't love them.

    There are a number of specific changes Cook's Illustrated made to your standard Toll House cookie recipe in order to achieve these results. Melted butter makes them chewier. Browning the butter makes them tastier. More brown sugar than white makes them chewier, too. Allowing the sugar to dissolve completely into the liquid ingredients lets the sugar caramelize better, enhancing flavor. It also makes the edges crispy, while leaving the center chewy. Behold:
    Browned Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies
    • 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
    • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
    • 14 tablespoons unsalted butter
    • 1/2 cup white sugar
    • 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
    • 1 teaspoon salt
    • 2 teaspoons vanilla
    • 1 large egg
    • 1 large egg yolk
    • 1 1/4 cups semisweet chocolate chips (Ghiradelli, for best results!)
    • 3/4 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (toasted)
    1. Adjust oven rack to the middle position. Heat oven to 375 degrees. (I always wait to do this step because my oven only takes a few minutes to pre-heat.) Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. (I actually have found that it is perfectly fine to re-use parchment sheets, so I use the same cookie sheet sized-parchment around 3 times--parchment's not cheap!)
    2. Whisk flour and baking soda together in a medium bowl. Set aside.
    3. Heat 10 tablespoons butter in a 10-inch skillet (try not to use a non-stick skillet. I used a light colored sauce pan--you need to see the color of the butter as you brown it) over medium high heat until melted. Continue cooking, stirring or swirling the pan constantly until the butter is a dark golden brown and has a nutty aroma--1 to 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and pour into a large heatproof bowl. Stir in remaining 4 tablespoons of butter into hot browned butter until it has melted.
    4. Add both sugars, salt and vanilla to bowl with butter and whisk until fully incorporated. Add egg and egg yolk; whisk until smooth--around 30 seconds.
    5. Let the mixture stand for 3 minutes, then whisk for 30 seconds. Repeat process of resting and whisking 2 more times (this let's the sugars dissolve), until the mixture is thick, smooth and shiny.
    6. Using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, stir in flour mixture until just combined--about 1 minute. Stir in chocolate chips and nuts, making sure no flour pockets remain.
    7. Spoon dough in 3 tablespoon portions 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets--8 to a sheet. Bake cookies 1 tray at a time until cookies are golden brown and still puffy; the edges will have begun to set, but the centers will be still soft after 10-14 minutes. Rotate the sheet halfway through baking.
    8. Transfer baking sheet to wire rack and cool cookies completely before serving.
    *Makes 16 cookies, which in my experience is not enough. I'd recommend doubling the recipe, for sure.